drunken red wine spaghetti with lamb & rosemary
easy, fancy food & a sort-of holiday gift guide
December is here, my favorite month of the year, and with it has come the cold. What was an undecided autumn—an annoying pendulum between 50 and 80 degrees—is, for now, a vehement winter, and I’m one of those crazy people who is very, very excited about it. Do not despair; join me in pulling out the cozy sweaters, lighting the imaginary (or, for the lucky ones, the actual) fire, and grabbing that extra bottle of wine.
Speaking of wine, today I’m bringing this home cook’s trusty sous chef into the spotlight with a dish inspired by an Italian classic called spaghetti all’ubriaco, or drunken spaghetti. Spaghetti all’ubriaco is inherently luxurious in its request to pamper our pasta with an entire bottle (or two, according to some recipes) of red wine. But it’s also incredibly simple and quick to prepare, making it somewhat of a rarity as easy, fancy food (my last self-proclaimed easy, fancy recipe is still one of my most popular). Also easy is our proclivity to drown in the glamour and busyness of the holiday season, and so I hope this recipe will alleviate some of that pressure: Something that can equally impress your guests and also be thrown together on a weeknight.
Traditional spaghetti all’ubriaco is widespread throughout Italy, though its origins are most often attributed to Tuscany, where it’s particularly popular and good red wine abounds. Should you find yourself enjoying this dish in Florence, it’s probably made by partially cooking spaghetti in a mixture of water and wine before transferring it to a pan of aromatics—garlic, peperoncino—that have been sizzling in olive oil and/or butter. More wine is then added to the pan so the pasta can drink it all up, effectively staining the strands a deep brownish-burgundy color. Other cooks opt for a risotto-style approach, slowly adding hot wine to the par-cooked pasta until it’s al dente. Regardless of technique, parsley is generally the garnish of choice. Of course, should you find this dish in other parts of Italy, you might also come across recipes featuring leeks or other alliums, nutmeg, and a pinch of sugar to balance out the wine’s acidity. Really, aside from pasta and red wine, you can go a little rogue.
And rogue did I go. (Are we surprised?) To make this dish a little extra-special, I detoured to a place somewhere between spaghetti all’ubriaco and a ragù, with the addition of rich ground lamb. Other ragù-ready aromatics have joined the party, too, and I’ve also thrown in a few rosemary sprigs to infuse more festive flavor into the wine itself. Still, even with a slightly longer ingredient list, this dish can be ready to eat in about an hour.
It’s important to note that although this recipe is dressed to impress, this is not the time to whip out the bottle of wine you’ve been saving for that special moment (unless, of course, it’s strictly to drink). A good, but not particularly great, red—one you’d happily drink at the kitchen counter—is ideal here. In Italy, it would be vino sfuso, meaning “loose (or bulk) wine,” or what we usually refer to as “house wine.” This is the stuff that is unbottled and comes in a cask, intended to be served immediately rather than cherished and aged; inexpensive, drinkable wine. For those of us in the States and without access to good vino sfuso, I’m talking about something mid-range and medium-bodied, not your Two-Buck Chuck: I opted for this Chianti at about $12, which I’d happily adopt at my new house wine if I were put together enough to have one.
Recipe aside, this is usually around the time I compile some sort of food-themed gift guide. I am, however, still lumbering out of hibernation and haven’t really had the time to sift through new products that might fit the bill. (Do we need another gift guide anyway? Serious question.) Instead, not to leave you totally hanging, here’s a mix of new and old things, in no particular order, that I’ve been enjoying and think you might, too:
Primis Imports Olive Oil: A recent discovery, and what I might even declare has become my “house olive oil” (I guess I’m not totally lacking in decorum). The Everyday Cuvée is buttery and pretty mild, so it’s great for both cooking and finishing, not to mention it’s got a built-in spigot that makes drizzling a breeze.
Bona Furtuna Balsamic Vinegar & Panettone: I’m pretty sure Bona Furtuna is on this list every year, but their new range of traditional balsamic vinegars from Modena are really exceptional. All the rich, complex, syrupy goodness of the proper stuff—even their most reasonably priced vinegar, the 7-year Invecchiato, is delicious, and a cut above anything else I’ve tried from the grocery store. Oh, and I can’t forget to mention their mind-blowing panettone, which I think about fondly at least once a month.
Chinese Enough: Homestyle Recipes for Noodles, Dumplings, Stir-Fries, and More:
does it again in her second cookbook, delighting us with delicious, mostly savory recipes that are a little Chinese, and a little not (smashed ranch cucumbers! Creamy tomato udon!). This was one of my most-anticipated cookbook releases of the season, not only because Kristina’s food is reliably tasty and beautiful to look at, but also because she’s one of the kindest and most insanely talented human beings I know. (If you haven’t subscribed to her Substack yet, what you are waiting for?!)Pass the Plate: 100 Delicious, Highly Shareable, Everyday Recipes: Another cookbook I couldn’t wait to dig into and needs no introduction.
is a legend—her recipes reach such a level of brilliance and inevitability while also being easy that I find myself in constant amazement of her skill, and also asking the same two questions: 1) How did she think of that?! and 2) Why didn’t I think of that?! I know many of you have found your way to this newsletter through Carolina’s Substack, but if you’re not following her work already, I really think you should. (PS: I was lucky enough to visit Carolina during the photoshoot of this book, and I can confirm that the banana bread recipe is insane. Make it.)Jacobsen Salt Co. Disco di Sale: Hello pasta gods, it’s me, Meryl. Thank you for bringing us all a solution to perfectly seasoned pasta water. Yes, these handy discs take the guesswork out of that pesky little question of how much salt is the right amount of salt: Jacobsen recommends one disc for every 1½ quarts (liters) of water; I like to drop 3 or 4 discs into my 8-quart stock pot, which I generally fill about ⅔ of the way, or with roughly 5 quarts.
Goldilocks Dutch Oven: I’m a glutton for Dutch ovens, and was gifted one of these by Goldilocks about 9 months ago. Having used it often since then—including for today’s recipe!—I can confirm that it’s fantastic: durable, with great heat retention; beautiful, with oversized loop handles and a pretty stainless steel knob; and (I can hardly believe I’m saying this) actually affordable, at under $100. I love it so much, I’m thinking of adding all three colors to my collection.
John Francis Designs Ravioli Molds: Need I say more? (Okay, I’ve said more here, here, and here.)
I also can’t forget my own holiday gift offerings (not-so-shameless plug!), if you’re still looking for inspiration:
Private virtual pasta classes (and private in-person classes, if you’re based in the Washington, DC area);
my upcoming virtual holiday pasta party;
and, of course, my cookbook, Pasta Every Day (on sale!).
Drunken Spaghetti with Lamb & Rosemary
Serves 4 to 6