a cozy one-pot pasta from naples

with potatoes & provolone

At last, soup season is here, and today I’m sharing a super (souper?) quick and easy one-pot meal that I’ve been enjoying on repeat. One-pot pastas are very much an American invention—a result of our perpetual busy-ness, I suppose—but there are a few that take root in Italy, too. One of them is pasta e patate, pasta with potatoes from Naples.

Pasta e patate is a celebration of carbohydrates designed for cold weather. It’s hearty and rustic, a hallmark of home cooking packed with cheap produce (onions, garlic, potatoes) and pantry staples (olive oil, tinned tomatoes, pasta mista). Some recipes suggest frying the vegetables in lard or rendered pancetta for added richness. All rely on a secret ingredient that most of us would throw away: a Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese rind, which slowly softens and imparts its residual flavor as the pasta cooks. Another variation of this dish, pasta e patate con la provola, features a hefty handful of provola affumicata, a lightly smoked cheese similar to smoked scamorza or young provolone. Sometimes the cheese is grated, but other times it’s added in bite-sized cubes at the very end, which melt just enough to get gooey around the edges. This recipe, as with most of my recipes, isn’t entirely traditional, but it’s inspired by all of these things.

Although pasta and potatoes might seem like an odd, unnecessary combination, the two are paired not infrequently in Italian cooking. Perhaps the most famous example is in Liguria, where the area’s venerated basil pesto is tossed with pasta (usually trofie or trenette), potatoes, and green beans. Here, the potatoes partially break down into the soup/sauce, making it creamier and more luxurious. Add that to the richness of the parmesan rind and melted cheese, and oof…my belly is happy and warm just thinking about it!

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Pasta with Potatoes & Provolone

Serves 4

¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
1 medium carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 medium celery stalk, finely chopped
1 small yellow or white onion, finely chopped
1 pound (450 grams) potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes*
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
3 tablespoons (45 grams) tomato paste
1 Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese rind, cleaned**
4 cups (1 liter) water, divided, plus more as needed
8 ounces (225 grams) small, soup-friendly dried pasta like ditalini or small shells, or pasta mista
1 ounce (30 grams) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
3 ounces (85 grams) smoked provolone or smoked scamorza, cut into ½-inch cubes***

*I prefer Yukon gold or other yellow potatoes, which don’t fully break down; for a creamier consistency, use baking potatoes.
**Thoroughly wipe the rind clean and grate the top layer off the exterior
***Alternatively, use a combination of smoked mozzarella and regular (not fresh) mozzarella

In a Dutch oven or large sauté pan, warm the oil over medium heat. Add the carrot, celery, and onion, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 10 minutes. Add the potatoes and cook, stirring often, until slightly soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Season generously with salt and pepper.

Stir in the garlic, rosemary, and tomato paste, and cook, stirring constantly, until the tomato paste darkens, 2 to 3 minutes. Cover with 2 cups (500 ml) of the water, and add the cheese rind and a big pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring every so often, until the potatoes are fork-tender but not totally falling apart, about 15 minutes. (If using gold/yellow potatoes, make sure they’re easily mashable; they might take a little longer.)

Smash some of the potatoes on the side of the pot with a fork. Add the pasta, remaining 2 cups (500 ml) water and another pinch of salt. Simmer, stirring often to prevent sticking, until the pasta is tender or cooked to your liking (this will vary widely depending on the brand and shape you use, so taste it occasionally), adding more water as needed.

Turn off the heat and remove the cheese rind. Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano and stir vigorously to combine, followed by the provolone. Cover the pot and let stand 2 minutes. Adjust seasoning to taste and serve, finished a drizzle of olive oil and more grated Parmigiano.

Note: As you can see, the mixture thickens quickly as it cools; if you prefer a thinner consistency, loosen with a little more water.