winter greens & beans pasta

a no-recipe recipe for post-holiday parties and one too many drinks

If your diet these last few weeks has looked anything like mine, you might be craving something light. Something nourishing. Something green. So today I’m offering you a no-recipe recipe that champions the familiar, always-welcome combination of winter greens and white beans.

This dish is loosely inspired by Joshua McFadden’s viral Kale Sauce Pasta, which debuted in his cookbook Six Seasons: A New Way with Vegetables in 2017 (still one of my all-time favorites). Although McFadden wasn’t the first to blitz kale in a blender and put it on pasta, his recipe—easy, versatile, and remarkably vibrant—has had such staying power that Eater deemed “Kale Sauce is a Way of Life” only a few months ago. My ingredient list is a little longer than McFadden’s, but the additions aren’t frivolous: anchovies bring nuanced complexity; red pepper flakes build warmth; goat cheese and lemon offer brightness and tang. I also opted for a combination of chard and lacinato (Tuscan) kale, but any robust green will do, even (especially!) the bunch already wilting in the fridge. Finally, of course, there are the white beans. If you’ve been here a while, you’ll know my favorite variety is butter beans for their rich and velvety texture.

Like my late-night lemon pasta and easiest garlic and anchovy pasta, this is a pantry dish designed to minimize kitchen time and maximize sofa time. It’s also a much-needed injection of protein and fiber after a holiday party or one too many drinks. (Better yet, the sauce base can be made ahead of time so it can be within arm’s reach at a moment’s notice.) And, like I said, this is a no-recipe recipe, so while I’m offering measurements here, I encourage you to tailor it to your preferences.

Before I go, I would be remiss not to mention that last night was the first night of Hanukkah, one of my favorite Jewish holidays, and one that feels especially important this year. I’ll be lighting candles and enjoying potato latkes and jelly donuts (sufganiyot) this evening, but if you’re looking for some Hanukkah-inspired pasta to put on your menu, check out last year’s potato-stuffed dumplings (kreplach) in chicken broth and leftover brisket ragù—both offer a much-needed dose of comfort during difficult times.

pasta in brodo, hanukkah edition

leftover brisket ragù

Happy Hanukkah to those celebrating, and happy holidays to all. I’ll be back with another recipe next week; in the meantime, take care of yourselves out there!

—Meryl

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Winter Greens & Beans Pasta

Serves 2 to 4

¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 oil-packed anchovy fillets
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 (15-ounce / 425-gram) can creamy white beans like butter beans or cannellini beans, drained, rinsed, and divided
8 to 12 ounces (225 to 340 grams; about 1 large bunch) hearty winter greens like chard, kale, or a mix, ribs and stems removed and leaves coarsely chopped*
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 ounce (30 grams) finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 to 2 ounces (45 grams; a couple spoonfuls) mild, creamy goat cheese (optional)
Juice of ½ lemon, plus more to taste
8 to 12 ounces (225 to 340 grams) orecchiette, or dried or fresh pasta of choice**
Toasted pine nuts or panko breadcrumbs, for topping (optional)

*I was left with about 5¼ ounces (150 grams) of de-stemmed greens.
**I used orecchiette I’d made previously and stored in the freezer. If you’d like to try your hand at fresh orecchiette, check out this recipe and tutorial.

In a small skillet or saucepan, warm the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic, anchovies, and red pepper flakes, and cook, stirring often, until the anchovies dissolve and the garlic is fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add ⅓ to ½ of the beans and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and warmed through, about 3 minutes. Transfer the mixture to high-speed blender.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, then season it generously with salt. Add the greens and cook until wilted and vibrant, about 1 minute. Using tongs and/or a spider sieve, transfer the greens to a colander and rinse under cold water, or shock in an ice bath (keep the pot of water at a boil). Add the greens to the blender and purée until very smooth, adding a splash of water to get the blade running if needed. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Add the pasta to the boiling water used for the greens. Stir for a few moments to prevent sticking and cook until al dente or to your liking.

While the pasta cooks, add half of the greens purée to a large (preferably metal) mixing bowl or sauté pan. With a spider sieve or slotted spoon, transfer the hot pasta and about ¼ cup (60 ml) cooking water directly to the sauce. (Alternatively, reserve some of the cooking water and drain the pasta in a colander, then immediately tip it into the sauce.)

Add the remaining beans, lemon juice, and cheeses and stir until creamy and well-combined. Add more greens purée and pasta cooking water as desired—any leftover purée can be frozen in an air-tight container for up to 3 months. Adjust seasoning to taste.

Divide the pasta among bowls and serve.