Hello, pasta community!
Last week, I waxed poetic about my favorite Sicilian pasta, busiate, so today I thought I’d share a simple, summery way to serve it. Busiate are traditionally paired with pesto alla Trapanese, a fresh tomato- and almond-based sauce that tops even my love of Genovese pesto. But sometimes I like to mix things up. And I especially like to transform classic condiments into pasta sauces. Today’s target: peperonata.
Peperonata is an unctuous ode to bell peppers, a rustic stew-meets-spread that’s mostly sweet and slightly tangy. This agrodolce (sweet-and-sour) flavor profile is a hallmark of southern Italian cooking and, of course, Sicily, which boasts the more-familiar eggplant caponata. Like caponata, peperonata is usually served as a side dish, slathered on crusty bread or polenta, or loaded onto fish or meat. I prefer to use a combination of colors—red, orange, and yellow—to showcase the bounty of pepper season (now through September!) in all its glory.
Of course, if making fresh pasta isn’t in the cards, this recipe works great with any dried pasta you have on hand (I’d particularly recommend casarecce). The sauce can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated in an air-tight container—some might even say it’s better the next day (à la pasta salad), but I know I won’t be able to resist eating this tonight!
—Meryl
Peperonata-Style Pasta
Serves 4
¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 small red onion or 2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
4 large bell peppers (preferably a mix of red, yellow, and orange), stemmed, seeded, and sliced into thin strips
Kosher salt
1 pound (454 grams; 2 cups) small, sweet tomatoes like cherry, grape, or Campari, halved and divided
¼ cup (40 grams) capers in brine, drained
1 large sprig fresh oregano, plus more for serving
2 large sprigs fresh basil, plus more for serving
1 to 2 tablespoons (15 to 30 ml) red or white wine vinegar (sherry and balsamic vinegar work well, too)
1 batch fresh busiate or 12 ounces (340 grams) dried pasta of choice
8 ounces (225 grams) fresh mozzarella, torn into bite-sized pieces
In a Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot with a lid, warm the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant and tinged gold around the edges, about 3 minutes. Stir in the onion and peppers and season with salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 8 to 10 minutes.
Reduce the heat to medium-low. Stir in half of the tomatoes, the capers, the herbs, ½ cup (120 ml) water, and another pinch of salt. Partially cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until everything is soft and saucy, 30 to 40 minutes.
While the peppers cook, add the rest of the tomatoes to a bowl, season with salt, and set aside to marinate. When the peppers are done, turn off the heat and discard the herb sprigs. Drain off any liquid from the salted tomatoes and add them to the pepper mixture. Add the vinegar and adjust seasoning to taste.
To serve, bring a large pot of water to a boil, then season it generously with salt. Add the busiate (or your pasta of choice), shaking out any excess flour before you do so. Stir for a few moments to prevent sticking and cook until tender or to your liking, 3 to 5 minutes for the busiate or according to the package instructions for dried pasta.
Return the pepper mixture to medium heat. Using a spider sieve and or/tongs, transfer the pasta directly to the sauce (if you need to drain the pasta in a colander first, reserve some cooking water). Stir to combine, loosening with pasta water as needed.
Divide the pasta among bowls and serve warm or at room temperature, finished with more fresh herbs, the torn mozzarella, and a generous drizzle of olive oil.
Wow thank you so much for this reminder of peporonata I even have a recipe in my cook book but haven’t made it for at least 10 years. Thank you it’s on the ‘to make list ‘ now
I make a batch of peperonata regularly and more often than not it ends up as a pasta condiment!