green puttanesca
a twist on the risqué classic, with wine to go with it
Here’s a springtime twist on the always-punchy, slightly risqué spaghetti alla puttanesca. I say slightly risqué because puttanesca literally means “in the style of prostitutes,” and legend has it that Neapolitan brothels would use the irresistible aroma of sizzling garlic and anchovies to lure customers to their doors—a myth, but a fun one (like so much pasta lore). And, to be fair, I wouldn’t blame anyone for blindly following their nose to the source of such an enticing combination of flavors.
The busy-ness of the warmer months is, over here, starting in earnest, and so I’m craving bright and easy dinners, meals that make good use of in-season produce alongside what’s already in my pantry. Puttanesca is pantry pasta at its best, and this version makes some simple swaps that yield a zingier, lighter take on the original. The most obvious change is the use of fresh green tomatoes, inspired by one of my most popular recipes, this green tomato pasta, which I introduced last year before ripe, red tomatoes made their summer debut. Here, too, the firm and underripe green variety results in a sauce that’s tart and refreshing, playing particularly well with puttanesca’s typical salt and spice and brine. Of course, such a simple dish benefits from good ingredients; to take it from simple to special, I used the stunning spaghettoni I brought back from Benedetto Cavalieri in Puglia, as well as my newly released extra-virgin olive oil, in collaboration with Primis Imports, also from Puglia.
Perhaps my favorite part about making an unfussy pantry meal like this one is reveling in the ease of the cooking process with a glass of wine. I’ll admit I’m not particularly well-versed in wine, or pairing wine with food, but I’m lucky to have many wine-inclined friends who point me in the right direction. More recently I connected with Meg Rulli, an Oregon-based winemaker and wine educator who makes her own wines for Flipturn Cellars, and also runs a platform called Barrel Dork, which aims to make the world of wine more accessible and, well, less pretentious (her word, not mine). As someone who is easily intimidated by wine—not to mention whose own platform seeks to demystify the often-daunting process of making pasta—Meg’s mission immediately resonated with me. Better yet, she’s been kind enough to share some wine pairing suggestions for today’s recipe, which complement the acidity and bold flavors of this particular dish (I opted for a Vermentino, one of my favorite white wines, and it was perfect). Saluti!
5 wines to drink with your puttanesca, according to Meg
Vermentino
Bright and citrusy with a touch of salinity, Vermentino is perfect for the warmer months ahead. Its crisp acidity and herbal notes play beautifully with the green tomato and briny components of this dish.
Look for: Sardinia (Italy), Liguria, or even Lodi, California.
Can’t find Vermentino? Go for an Albariño, Grüner Veltliner, or Sauvignon Blanc—they’ve got similar vibes.
Etna Bianco
Made mostly from the grape Carricante, this Sicilian white wine offers minerality, a lemony snap, and a clean finish—just what you want to tame the heat and balance the umami of the sauce.
Look for: Etna DOC (Sicily, Italy).
Assyrtiko
This Greek white is known for its high acidity and stony backbone. It’s a killer choice for anchovy- and caper-heavy dishes like this one.
Look for: Santorini (Greece).
Dry Rosé
A dry rosé with some weight (Provençal or Spanish Garnacha-based) can stand up to all the layers of this dish without overpowering. Rosé is always a versatile food wine because it’s both refreshing and palate-cleansing.
Look for: Provence (France), Navarra (Spain), or the Willamette Valley (Oregon).
Frappato
This light-bodied red from Sicily is juicy and aromatic, with red berry notes and subtle herbaceous components. It can be served slightly chilled (so it’s an awesome summer red!) and is a fantastic match for tomato-based pasta dishes with heat and acid.
Look for: Vittoria (Sicily, Italy).
Can’t find Frappato? A Pinot Noir would be an excellent alternative here.
PS: If you’re interested in more food and wine pairing tips, Meg has a cheat sheet you can download for free here!
Green Puttanesca
Serves 4