another caramelized onion pasta

can't stop, won't stop

There are few foods I don’t love, but some, I’ll admit, can get tiring: Meal-prepped chicken and broccoli. Third-day vegetable soup. Little cups of fruit-flavored yogurt that remind me of my elementary school lunches. Avocado toast. (Just kidding—I love avocado toast.) Caramelized onions? Not one of those things. And neither is mac and cheese.

So, today I bring you yet another cheesy caramelized onion pasta recipe. It’s not so different from last year’s French onion-style pasta, which quickly became a reader favorite (and is still one of mine). There’s also a caramelized onion cheese sauce in my cookbook, based on a popular recipe I wrote for Food52 a few years ago. And so, with cozy season upon us, here we are again. But I ask you this: Is it so bad to keep coming back to something so good?

As with any caramelized onion mac worth its salt, this one is rich and creamy, with just enough tang and just enough sweet to cut through the dairy. It’s got an adorable shell-shaped pasta to scoop up those onions and hold them tight. And I can’t forget the crunchy, sage-infused breadcrumbs that top it all off. (Full disclosure: This is not the only mac-and-cheese-esque recipe you’ll be getting from me this fall.)

I always talk about how proper caramelized onions take time. It’s true, and there’s really no way around it, but I offer a couple of shortcuts here—starting the onions on a higher heat; braising them in stock (à la the aforementioned French onion-style pasta)—to make this doable on a weeknight. The result is onions that are amber and jammy but still have a hint of bite, which I think works nicely alongside the gooey sauce. You can also make the onions ahead of time and, if you do, I’d make a double batch and freeze the leftovers for your future self who will, inevitably, want more caramelized onions.

Anyway—enough chat. Onto the recipe!

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Cheesy Caramelized Onion Pasta with Sage Breadcrumbs

Serves 4

For the onions

2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter
1¼ pounds (550 to 600 grams; about 2 large or 3 small) sweet or yellow onions, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch halfmoons
Kosher salt
3 tablespoons (45 ml) balsamic vinegar
1 cup (240 ml) vegetable stock

For the breadcrumbs

1 tablespoon (15 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon (15 grams) unsalted butter
1 cup (75 grams) panko breadcrumbs
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage

For the rest

2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter
2 to 3 tablespoons (30 grams) all-purpose flour
1½ cups (360 ml) whole milk
3 to 4 ounces (85 to 115 grams) freshly grated gruyère
3 to 4 ounces (85 to 115 grams) freshly grated young gouda or edam
Whole nutmeg
12 ounces (340 grams) conchiglie or other short-cut pasta of choice

For the onions

In a Dutch oven or large, heavy-bottomed sauté pan, warm the oil and butter over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook, stirring often, until they’re soft and golden, about 25 minutes. (If they start to scorch, deglaze the pan with a splash of water and/or turn down the heat.) Season to taste with salt.

Reduce the heat to medium. Add the vinegar and cook for 2 minutes. Add the stock and cook, stirring often, until the liquid is absorbed and the onions are deeply browned and jammy, 15 to 20 minutes. Adjust seasoning to taste and transfer to a bowl.

For the breadcrumbs

While the onions cook, warm the oil and butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the breadcrumbs and a big pinch of salt and cook, stirring often, until the crumbs turn golden, about 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the sage and turn off the heat. Transfer to a bowl.

For the rest

Start bringing a large pot of water to a boil.

In the same vessel used to cook the onions, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and cook, whisking constantly, until it starts to bubble and smell nutty, about 2 minutes.

Add the milk slowly, either in a steady stream or a splash at a time, whisking continuously (at first the mixture will get very thick; it’ll thin out significantly once all of the milk is added). Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, still whisking, until the sauce starts to bubble and thicken to the consistency of a creamy soup, about 2 minutes. (You know it’s done when it coats the back of a metal spoon.)

Reduce the heat to low. Add the cheeses one handful at a time, whisking after each addition until smooth (I opted for 3 ounces of each cheese, which results in a slightly lighter sauce—do as you wish!). Season to taste with salt and plenty of freshly grated nutmeg. Stir in the reserved onions and remove from the heat.

For serving

When the water is boiling, season it generously with salt. Add the pasta, stir for a few moments to prevent sticking, and cook according to the package instructions until al dente or your liking.

Return the sauce to low heat. Using a spider sieve or slotted spoon, transfer the pasta directly to the sauce and stir to coat. (If you need to drain the pasta in a colander, reserve at least 1 cup of the cooking water before doing so.) Loosen with pasta water as needed (you will need it!) until it reaches a saucy, glossy consistency. Divide the pasta among bowls and serve, topped with the breadcrumbs.